In the annals of Irish history, Limerick once again finds itself at the forefront, with its resilient citizens standing firm against a familiar invader, this time from England. The streets of Limerick bear witness to a proud tradition of resistance, where men and women alike boldly join the fight. As we delve into the details of this ongoing struggle, it’s worth taking a moment to explore the unique charm and character that define Limerick, Ireland.
A curious comparison has been drawn between Limerick and the bustling streets of New York by an American tourist, albeit with a tinge of scepticism. However, the resemblance lies not in the teeming masses or modern amenities but rather in the layout of George Street. This central thoroughfare, akin to Broadway, extends into the fashionable Crescent, which plays host to both historical grandeur and contemporary life. The skyline, punctuated by ship masts and funnels, adds a maritime touch to this picturesque cityscape.
Limerick unfolds in layers—Limerick, New Limerick, and Newer Limerick—each telling a distinct story. The arrival by train places one in New Limerick, a nineteenth-century creation that, despite its lack of historical significance, captivates with Pery Square’s mix of humble and imposing architecture. Fitzwilliam Place, now relatively diminished, attests to the city’s evolution driven by the ever-growing desire for modern dwellings.
A stroll from the station unveils the graceful Crescent, featuring a statue of O’Connell, affectionately dubbed “the wake” due to its surrounding lamps. The Military Road leads to barracks once occupied by Captain Shawe-Taylor, a poignant reminder of Limerick’s role in military history. As George Street transitions into Patrick Street and Rutland Street, the journey winds towards landmarks like the Court House, boasting the legacy of the late Dick Adams, and the Cathedral of St. Mary’s, now a property of the Protestant Church.
Religion permeates Limerick’s fabric, evident in the multitude of Catholic churches and various orders’ places of worship. Convents stand as silent sentinels, contributing to the city’s aura of sanctity. The renaming of George Street to O’Connell reflects the city’s patriotic fervour, although old habits die hard, and the original nomenclature persists.
Sarsfield Bridge, formerly Wellesley Bridge, stands as a testament to the city’s commitment to its heritage, despite the incongruity of a Balaclava hero’s statue nearby. Crossing this noble bridge brings us to the crossroads where Newer and Old Limericks converge. Circular Road and Clare Road showcase villa residences, competing for status with the “county folk,” while the Old Limerick beckons with the Treaty Stone and King John’s Castle, a delightful blend of antiquity and modern comfort.
Limerick’s trade echoes Chicago’s, with the pig in its various forms reigning supreme. Yet, the city exudes a tranquillity unbefitting the bustling markets, and its citizens, far from hustling, engage in leisurely gossip. The County Club, a prominent edifice in George Street, has its share of notoriety, while the city’s paving, not of the highest quality, receives attention only during pedestrian funerals.
Limerick’s inhabitants, known for their proverbial beauty and jovial spirits, navigate life with matrimonial ambitions. Professional careers beckon the lads, with solicitors and doctors gracing the cityscape like salmon in the Shannon. Politically, Limerick has left its mark, aligning itself with the legacies of O’Connell, Butt, and Parnell.
Social life in Limerick is characterized by its quiet, friendly nature, though public amusements remain limited. A penchant for running down their city is a peculiar trait of the locals, yet, in reality, they harbour a deep-seated attachment. Even those in exile carry the spirit of Limerick with them, a testament to the city’s enduring charm.
As the Holy War rages on, Limerick stands not just as a battlefield, but as a city where history intertwines with hospitality. Its peaceful people, deeply connected to their roots, find solace in the embrace of this historic city, a place where the echoes of the past resonate harmoniously with the rhythms of the present.
Dublin Leader – Saturday 11 November 1911
